THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To perform this hack, you will need an invisible zipper with a minimum length of 20cm.
The yardage is calculated based on a width of 130cm, corresponding to our quilted fabric:
For sizes 34 and 36: allow 1.20m of fabric
For sizes 38 to 52: Allow 1.50m of fabric
THE TUTORIAL
Modify the front pattern :
For this step you will need the pattern for the front of your Groovy skirt, patch pocket version which we are going to modify.
Extend the center line of the skirt up to the "closure notch"
Next, remove the center front seam allowance : draw a line parallel 1cm from the center front and cut along this line.
The piece will need to be cut once on the fold.
Modifying the waistband pattern : For this step, you will need the left front waistband pattern, which we will also modify.
Remove the 1cm seam allowance from the center front of the left front waistband. The piece will be cut twice on the fold.
The back belt and back piece remain unchanged.
THE TUTORIAL
The assembly process remains the same as in the tutorial, with the exception of the following steps. For these, you will need all your cut pieces and an invisible zipper.
Assembling the skirt.
1 – Make the back darts by following step #2 of the tutorial.
2 – Overlock the sides of the skirt, front and back
3 – Assemble:
-the right side where the inner and outer belts are worn (iron with seams open)
-the right side of the skirt (iron with seams open)
-the outer waistband of the skirt, right sides together (press with seams flat towards the waistband)
The zipper
1 – Mark the beginning of your zip on your skirt 1cm from the top of the waistband, and the stop of your zip.
2 – Point to the top of the zip on your skirt (it corresponds to the small plastic edge) and the notch that indicates the bottom of the zip.
3 – Sew the invisible zipper to the front, right sides together, using a single-leg presser foot. Match the notches.
4 – Stop the stitching at the closing stop point.
5 – Attach the zipper using a presser foot for invisible zippers. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
6- Repeat the operation to assemble the zip on the back.
Assembling the belt
1 – Remove the seam allowance of the inner waistband by cutting 1cm all along the bottom of the waistband.
2 – Overlock the bottom edge of the inner waistband. We chose to finish the waistband with an overlock stitch because of the thickness of the fabric, but you can also use bias binding as explained in the tutorial.
3 – Assemble the inner belt to the outer belt, right sides together, by sewing at 1cm and following the instructions in the tutorial.
4 – Perform an understitching. (See step 18 of your tutorial)
Lower the belt
1 – Position the belts right sides together.
2 – At the closure on the left side, sew 1cm from the raw edges across the entire width of the belt, making a backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
3 – Notch, turn inside out and iron the belt.
4 – Stitch in the groove of the waistband and skirt assembly seam to hold the inner waistband in place.
To finish
1 – Finish attaching the side seam of the skirt to the bottom of the zipper by stitching 1cm as close as possible to the end of the zipper
2 – If, like us, you have chosen a quilted or very thick fabric, you can choose not to hem the bottom of the skirt but to make a 3cm overlocked hem which you will stitch 2.5cm from the edge.
The hack is complete! We can't wait to see your brand new Groovy skirts!
And there you have it, you're ready to hack the Groovy skirt pattern!
Use our tutorials or your imagination to create your own hacks and share your creations with #lisetailor
